Lal Qila, the Red Fort

The Red Fort

Lal Qila or the Red Fort was commissioned by Shahjahan on May 12^th,1939 and was completed on 6^thApril 1948. Shahjahan planned to move the capital from Agra to Delhi. It was designed by Ustad Ahmed Lahori. Lahori is the famous architect of the Taj Mahal too. The Mughals ruled from here until they were ousted by the East India company. The fort was ransacked by Nadir Shah and East India company. Jawaharlal Nehru hoisted the flag on its ramparts on 15^th August 1947, setting up a tradition. To date, the Indian Prime Minister hoists the Tricolor from that spot on our Independence Day. The documentary ended and we walked out. Lal Qila is aptly called a complex of Museums, it has quite a few, and we were checking out the story of the Red fort in one.  

We had crossed over from Chandni Chowk to the most iconic monument of Delhi, the Red Fort. We had reached Chandni Chowk for lunch and there was no way we would go without eating at Paranthe wali galli. Every Paratha seemed to be priced at 200 rupees in Pandit Gaya Prasad Shiv Charan’s shop. This shop was set up in 1872 and currently the sixth generation is running it.  A young man was at the till and took our orders. We were startled to see our Parathas being deep fried. We didn’t expect this. It was served with an assortment of unlimited Subzis and a salad.  We polished off the Parathas and downed them with Lassi. We went window shopping, but it proved to be an obstacle race with Rickshaws choking the narrow lanes. As we risked our limbs we looked around and caught an amazing variety of shops. Dazzling sequined and embroidered Lehengas peeped out of some, sequined glitzy purses big and small called out of some, ready made blouses again sequined draped a shops walls and exteriors. Finally, we gave up our struggles and walked back towards the main road. But we got waylaid by Daulat ki chaat, a sweet available only in winter. It is made of milk and dew, and so light, it melted in our mouths. Must have been whipped cream, I thought.

The road leading to Red Fort was choking with Traffic but Delhiites crossed through the opening in the barricades, and we tailgated them. And entered the grounds leading to the Lahori gate. If we walked away from it in a straight line, we would reach Lahore, hence Lahori gate. We bought our tickets, posed for pictures in front of the fort walls and entered the gates. The cannons flanking the gates were so small, I have seen massive ones in Vijayapura and Kalburgi. These were well polished and shiny, perhaps fighting fit. Straight ahead two vertical square turrets aimed for the skies. They were guard posts perhaps. I turned slowly to my right and caught sight of the stairs leading to a landing with a flag post. The import of it stunned me. This is where the Prime Minister of India hoists the Tricolor on Independence Day.  Two Policemen with guns slung across their shoulders stood looking down menacingly from the staircase. Only the PM and we get to climb here they seemed to say. We were in a no admission zone for the hoi polloi. We hurried away.

	Guard posts
The flag is hoisted here on Independence day	Entrance to Chatta Chowk

We turned left and entered the Chhatta-Chowk, a vaulted arcade.  This closed bazar is an Islamic design, and I remember seeing pictures of it when I researched for the Silk Road. Shops were open on only the ground floor and sold Pashmina shawls, Sandalwood artifacts etc. Sandalwood knickknacks in Delhi? We walked up to the shop and spoke to the owner. He was a local and a third-generation seller. The shop had everything that one finds in our Cauvery emporiums. The first-floor shops were shut. Wonder when it was shut? Perhaps it can be opened and a museum of goods sold in Mughal era showcased? Anyone interested in taking it up with Delhi govt/ ASI? The arcade was divided into three segments, and I tried to capture a picture of all three of them telescoping into each other. By the time of this writing, I have seen 3 Mughal forts and Chhatta Chowk is unique to this fort.

What is the Chatta Chowk?

Two storied arcade

Visitors shopping

The Nakkar Khana/ Naubat Khana with its ornate designs stood before us. The walls had designs on them and the roofs and Arches painted. Nakkar Khana is a common element seen in many Islamic Monuments. Musicians announced the arrival of the King from here. This one was two storied, but no one was allowed to go to the first floor.

What is the Naubat Khana?	Look at the painting	Ceiling
Ornately carved walls	Entrance	Side view
	A long shot

A red building, the Diwan i Am, with nine Arches beckoned and we walked in. Inside, a lady was dancing and making reels! Aghast, we ignored her and walked towards the seat of power, a canopy made of marble. The throne used to be placed under this canopy and his Wazir, the Prime minister, sat on a table in front, receiving petitions. Petitions cannot be given now since the seat is empty and behind a glass barricade. No one can go near it. Sigh! The double pillars in this building joined at the base and the top reminded me of similar ones in Rang Mahal in Prayagraj fort.

What is the Diwan i am	Diwan i am	See the double columns?
Marble canopy and Seat		Side view of the canopy

Mumtaz Mahal didn’t seem very attractive compared to the Tea shop on the opposite side. There used to be a stream running through the Mahal long ago it seems. I didn’t see any water anywhere and we meandered towards the Tea shop.

Mumtaz Mahal info

Mumtaz mahal

The Khas Mahal, the private palace of the emperor, was very pretty. We had to be content with pictures only as we were not allowed to go inside it. Animal fights were organized in front of it for Royal entertainment. An octagonal tower on top was where the emperor greeted the people daily. No emperor to wave to now. No Animal fights too.

Khas Mahal info

Khas Mahal

Zoom to see the details

The Diwan i khas was spectacular.  Again, we had to be content with pictures only from the outside. “Did you see Shahjahan inside?” I asked my friends at the Security guard strolling inside. I could hardly get enough pictures; it was so beautiful. Built of white marble it has inlay work in the panels and the roof feels like a carpet. Inlay work would take on a whole new meaning in the Taj and Baby Taj  a few days later, but this is where I saw them first. “This was where the Peacock throne was placed” said tourists of long ago after seeing it the inside this building. Tourists of today cannot even climb the steps leading to it.

Diwan i khas	Can you spot Shahjahan?	Zoom to see the details
Another view	Series of arches	Seen the roof?

We walked ahead, but the famous Hammam(bath) and Aurangazeb’s Moti Masjid were closed.

Moti Masjid and Hammam

So too were many buildings including Museums.

I turned back for a couple of pictures of Sawan and Bhadon Pavilion. It too has inlay work on the lower panels.

Sawan and Bhadpn Pavilion

Zoom to see the wall details

Another view of the wall

Slowly we meandered to Lahori gate, and I got some great pictures of the Tricolor atop the Red Fort and another of the ramparts from where it is hoisted on our Independence Day. This fort is easily a half a day visit when the Museums are open, I thought as we walked outside.

Can you see the flag atop Red fort?

See the rampart from where it is hoisted on Independence day?

Lahori gate

Here is a Virtual Tour .